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You may not know it, but your home could have indoor air pollution. Here’s how to clear the air.
You probably clean your home regularly, but your indoor air quality could benefit from a thorough cleaning, too. Recent studies point to why: The air you breathe inside your home can contain two to five times more pollutants than outside air, according to U.S. Environmental Protection Agency research. Consider that Americans spend about 90% of their time indoors, too. What’s Causing Indoor Air Pollution Other factors also contribute to the problem. Wildfires, like the ones in Canada that spread to the U.S., can compromise outdoor air quality. That outdoor air can enter homes, making it unhealthy to breathe the indoor air, the EPA says. Other causes of indoor air pollution range from household cleaners and chemicals — those emitted from paints and furnishings — to cooking appliances, fireplaces, tobacco, pet dander, mold, dust, pressed wood products, coal heating, and even candles. Compounding the issue, today’s super-sealed, energy-efficient homes can lead to a buildup of pollutants. This can create health problems including respiratory illnesses and allergy flare-ups, migraines, and even heart disease, according to the World Health Organization. “A lack of ventilation is the most common culprit behind air quality issues,” says Lane Dixon, vice president of operations at Aire Serv, a Tennessee-based heating and air conditioning company. “When the air can’t circulate properly, allergens, dust, and debris build up within the home.” 12 Ways to Improve Indoor Air Quality at Home Experts offer these 12 tips that can help you keep your indoor air quality as clean as the rest of your home. #1 Invest in an Air Purifier The EPA’s AirNow.gov program reports on the air quality across the U.S. With the air quality index at “very unhealthy” or even “hazardous” levels in some areas of the U.S. in summer 2023, consumers may be considering buying air purifiers. Using an air purifier (also called a portable air cleaner or air sanitizer) and/or upgrading the air filter in your furnace or HVAC system can improve indoor air quality, the EPA says. The devices are designed to filter the air in a single room or area. The main types of air purifiers are HEPA purifiers (capture at least 99.97% of particles larger than 0.3 microns), activated carbon technology (filters that use high-absorbency carbon), ultraviolet technology (uses shortwave ultraviolet light to kill airborne pathogens), and ionic purifiers (send negatively charged ions and clean the air using electrically charged filters). Tips: Check for an AHAM Verifide mark, which shows the air cleaner’s clean air delivery rate and suggested room size, and signifies that the manufacturer’s claims about performance have been verified independently, says a spokesperson at the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers. Place air purifiers in the center of a room, away from anything that may block it, and clean filters regularly, he says. #2 Maintain Good Indoor Hygiene Cleaning your home regularly can help reduce indoor pollutants like dust, pet dander, and mold. Wipe down hard surfaces with a damp cloth and vacuum carpets weekly with a HEPA-rated filter (capable of capturing 99.97% of particles larger than 0.3 microns), suggests Martin Seeley, CEO and founder of Mattress Next Day in the U.K. The American Academy of Allergy Asthma & Immunology recommends washing bedding weekly in hot water (130 degrees Fahrenheit) to kill dust mites — allergy-triggering, microscopic creatures that thrive in bedding, upholstered furniture, and carpets. #3 Change HVAC Filters Regularly More than a quarter of Americans admit they never change their home’s air filter, according to a consumer survey from The Zebra, an insurance comparison site. Air filters can remove allergens and pollutants and help improve overall air quality, Seeley says. Replace them per manufacturer’s guidelines; experts usually recommend at least every three months. During heavy-use months in the winter or summer if you have pets, check filters monthly. Tip: Choose air filters with high MERV (minimum efficiency reporting value), ratings on a scale of 1 to 16. In general, the higher the rating, the better the filter can capture certain particles. #4 Open the Windows Natural ventilation is key to improving air quality, according to the EPA. Even during cooler months, opening a window just a crack for at least 10 minutes a day can prevent stale, stuffy air and the accumulation of indoor contaminants. But keep windows closed when outdoor pollution is a problem. Create “stack ventilation” by opening windows at the same time on higher and lower levels to create a breeze throughout the house, suggests Christine Marvin, chief marketing and experience officer at Marvin, a windows manufacturer. Or, consider adding a heat recovery ventilator or energy recovery ventilator to your HVAC system to circulate fresh air from the outside. Turn these devices off, though, when outdoor air pollution is a problem. #5 Watch Humidity Levels Humidity can be an air quality nemesis, leading to mold, mildew, and bacteria. To keep humidity in check, use dehumidifiers to remove moisture from the air. Also, always use an exhaust fan in the bathroom during showers and for at least 15 minutes afterward. To gauge humidity levels, consider buying a hygrometer, which is like a thermometer for humidity. Keep indoor humidity levels from 30% to 50% relative humidity, the EPA advises. If a home’s too dry, humidifiers add moisture to the air. For example, ultrasonic humidifiers emit cool mist to increase humidity. Follow the manufacturer’s directions on cleaning and use. #6 Flip on a Fan Floor fans, exhaust fans, and ceiling fans can all be used to increase a home’s ventilation. During the pandemic, studies showed that ceiling fans could help move the air inside a space and reduce the indoor transmission of airborne pathogens. #7 Clean Your Pet Yes, even your beloved pet can lower indoor air quality by leaving behind dander, microscopic skin flakes that linger in the air and can trigger allergies and respiratory issues. Clean pet bedding regularly. Create pet-free zones in the house. Try a paw wiper, such as silicone washer cups lined with bristles, to clean paws before pets enter your home to avoid tracked-in outdoor contaminants. #8 Vent While Cooking About 30% of indoor contaminants come from cooking alone, according to the “International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health.” Lower your risk by venting cooking aerosols while cooking. Gas stovetop ranges have come under fire because of the nitrogen dioxide and carbon dioxide emitted during use. A range hood fan, which should be vented to the outside, creates a vacuum in the house to help remove dangerous gasses when cooking. #9 Use Air-Cleaning Plants NASA-backed research has shown plants can help remove toxins from the air. Often, the larger and leafier the plant is, the greater the air-purifying impact. Among nature’s best air purifiers: English ivy, bamboo palm, parlor palm, snake plant, red-edged dracaena, peace lilies, and Boston ferns. #10 Limit Indoor Chemicals Cleaning products can produce volatile organic components, which can irritate eyes, nose, and throat and even cause organ damage after heavy exposure. These components can be found in products like paints, cleaning liquids, air fresheners, and hairspray. Aire Serv’s Dixon suggests avoiding chemical-laden household products containing ammonia, chlorine, and triclosan — contributors to poor indoor air quality. When using cleaning products, increase ventilation by turning on fans or opening windows. Store your cleaning products — as well as paints and pesticides — away from the house, in the garage or a shed. Or, opt for cleaning products with natural ingredients, like baking soda or vinegar. Chemicals may lurk in other areas of the home too, such as formaldehyde in pressed wood furniture, flooring, and even carpet fabrics. Look for products with low or no formaldehyde. #11 Swap out Candles Certain types of candles may add scent but worsen indoor air quality. Candles made from synthetic fragrance oils and paraffin wax can release airborne soot — consisting of phthalates, lead, and benzene — that can trigger respiratory and allergy symptoms, according to the EPA. Experts suggest using candles made of beeswax, palm oil, soy, or other plant-based waxes, which can burn cleaner and longer. Also, the Children’s Environmental Health Network suggests choosing candles with a single wick, increasing ventilation when burning, and burning candles for only one or two hours at a time. #12 Monitor and Test the Air You can buy devices to use at home that detect, monitor, and report on air pollutants like particulate matter, radon, carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, formaldehyde, volatile organic compounds, and environmental factors. The devices, which the EPA calls low-cost air pollution monitors, use a number, color, or graphic to display the level of pollutants the device’s sensors detect. But there are no widely accepted air concentration limits for most pollutants indoors, so each manufacturer determines the levels that trigger an alert, the agency says. It also notes that the cost usually relates more to device features than performance. The EPA doesn’t produce the monitors, but it does evaluate certain air sensor technologies, generally in outdoor conditions. You can find scientific information about using air sensor monitoring systems from the EPA’s Air Sensor Toolbox. Of course, there are limits on what you can control in your home environment. But making some changes can help you and your family breathe a lot easier. By: HouseLogic Find the right answer for you by learning what to expect.
If your bathroom needs an update, but you don’t want to overhaul the entire space with a remodel, it may be time to refinish your bathtub. Refinishing could make the room look fresher and more modern. You could tackle this project yourself with some guidance or hire a professional for a higher cost. Here are some tips to help you decide whether refinishing your bathtub is right for you and how to choose between DIY and bringing in a pro. Either way, once the project is done, just add bubbles and relax. What’s the Difference Between Bathtub Refinishing, Resurfacing, and Reglazing?Some people use terms like bathtub refinishing, resurfacing, and reglazing interchangeably. However, each term has a distinct meaning.
Some signs that it’s time to refinish your bathtub include:
Of course, you may want to refinish the tub, not because it’s worn out, but because you want to change the color to match your bathroom’s aesthetic. Paint will help personalize the look with a new color, but the paint can chip away and might require repainting in the future. Is It Worth It to Refinish a Bathtub?Refinishing a bathtub could give your bathroom a serious facelift, but it’s not always the right intervention. Replacing a tub is more expensive and labor-intensive than refinishing. But sometimes, replacement is the best option. To determine whether refinishing your tub is worthwhile, consider the following:
Safety EquipmentPrep EquipmentCleaning ProductsMaterials to Fill in Dents and ScratchesSanding/Buffing ToolsBathtub Refinishing Tools – Gloves – Goggles – A fan for ventilation – Long sleeves – Tape to section off the area – Drop cloths to keep the area clean – Rags to wipe up spills– Bleach or an abrasive cleaner like Comet – Sponges and rags– Epoxy, which may come in your DIY kit, or bathroom putty – A sponge brush or sprayer to apply epoxy– A manual or palm sander, steel wool, or sandpaper – Rags to wipe up dust– Paint or glaze – Roller or brush – Small brushes for touch-upsBathtub Refinishing: Step by StepBefore you dive into this project, check out the basic steps. That way, you can decide whether you feel comfortable DIYing or should go with a professional. This is a general guide for bathtub refinishing. So, if you choose to DIY the project, look for more detailed instructions. #1 Prep the Space Before Resurfacing the TubBegin by ensuring the space has adequate ventilation. Use an exhaust fan to remove toxic fumes and open windows and doors or use an industrial or portable fan to circulate and replace the air for up to two days while the product dries. This step is critical to your health and safety, as you’ll work with hazardous materials. Next, remove clutter, protect your fixtures, lay down your tarp, tape off the area, and collect all the necessary supplies. #2 Clean the BathtubBefore you do anything more, you have to scrub. Deep clean the tub to remove every trace of soap scum, mold, dirt, and other debris. The cleaner the tub, the better the coating product can adhere to the surface. If your bathroom is easy to clean, this step may not take as long. #3 Fill Bathtub Dings and ScratchesUse epoxy or putty products designed for bathrooms to fill in gashes, dings, holes, and scratches in your tub. You may want to speak with a professional if the tub needs more than cosmetic care. Sand down textured or inconsistent bathtub surfaces before proceeding. #4 Buff the BathtubThoroughly buff out the whole tub to strip its topmost layer, using a sanding machine, sandpaper, steel wool, or other buffing tool. This step removes the peeling remnants of the last coating and helps even out the tub’s surface. #5 Clean and Buff the Bathtub (Again!)You’ll repeat the cleaning and buffing process a few times. Since the sanding process releases dust particles, you must clean the tub thoroughly each time you buff. If any dust remains, your finishing product may not adhere. #6 Apply Bathtub Refinishing ProductWearing a mask, gloves, and goggles, and working in a well-ventilated space, apply the coating product with a brush or spray. DIY kits likely include this product, but otherwise, you’ll have to pick it up separately. You may have to use a few layers. Let the product dry completely. Consult product instructions for details on the time to dry. #7 Clean the Bathtub (Yes, Again!)Once the product is thoroughly dry, you can clean the space, remove the tape, and rinse your tub to remove any lingering chemicals or dust. If you need to reapply caulk or grout, wait until the tub has completely dried. #8 Regularly Maintain Your BathtubRegular bathtub maintenance could help your new finish last longer and look better. To maintain your tub, try to clean it after every use. That may sound daunting, but the more often you clean, the less time and effort it takes. Ensure you have bathroom ventilation to avoid excess moisture that may lead to mold. Refer to the instructions on your DIY kit or refinishing product for how to best preserve the coating. How Long Does It Take to Refinish a Bathtub?Factors like humidity and your bathtub’s materials and age could affect how long refinishing takes. Generally, the refinishing process takes two to five hours. Professionals may complete the project more quickly, and first-time DIYers may take a little longer. But don’t grab the bubbles yet. Before you can enjoy a luxurious bath in your newly refinished tub or soon-to-be spa-like bathroom, you must let the tub dry. This could take up to 48 hours but may need only 24 hours. DIY Bathtub RefinishingWhether you hope to save money or are ready for a new project, you may want to DIY your bathtub refinishing instead of hiring a professional. Fortunately, you can, though the process may include a few messy steps. Consider the following to help you get started. Bathtub DIY KitsMany retailers sell DIY kits that make refinishing the bathtub a more straightforward process. The kits include materials like epoxies, putties, or enamels that work with the most common types of bathtubs. They may also come with brushes, sprayers, rollers, and sandpaper. Some even include specific tints to change the color of your bathtub. The Safety of a DIY Bathtub RefinishWhile you must take safety precautions, the bathtub refinishing process is relatively uncomplicated. The most strenuous work is cleaning and sanding down the tub a few times. Make sure you take breaks as needed and stay hydrated. Sanding the tub and applying products like epoxy release dust particles and hazardous chemical fumes. Protecting your lungs and skin throughout the process is paramount to your safety. Wearing gear like an N95 mask, gloves, goggles, long sleeves, and long pants could go a long way in keeping you safe. Ventilation is essential for your lungs and for allowing the space to dry. Keep a fan on and, whenever possible, open your windows to maximize airflow in the area. Quality of ResultsDIY bathroom refinishing may save you money, but it’s unlikely to bring you the same quality results a professional would get. A pro may achieve a smoother finish or a higher shine. However, a DIY tub refinish could still look great, even if it doesn’t quite reach professional standards. Professional Bathtub RefinishingIf you don’t want to DIY your bathtub refinish, you could always bring in a pro. Contractors’ typical process for refinishing a bathtub is similar to the DIY process. They start by deep cleaning the tub. Then, they remove the existing finish and repair any cosmetic problems. Finally, they spray on a finish for uniform coverage in the color of your choosing. While they follow the same basic steps as DIYers, with experience on their side, they often have smoother and more seamless results. Why Do Professionals Get Different Results?While DIY bathtub refinishing kits and home improvement stores could certainly offer you the refinishing tools it takes to get the job done, professionals have access to more specialized technology. Higher quality tools plus expertise mean contractors often leave you with more polished results that last longer. Cost to Refinish BathtubsIf you hire a professional, your tub’s materials and size may impact the price. Fiberglass is at the low end of the cost spectrum, with prices ranging from $250 to $600, according to a Fixr cost comparison. On the other hand, an acrylic tub could cost $400 to $700. These estimates include labor and materials. If you DIY the project, you could expect to spend around $75 on supplies, according to the Homewyse cost calculator. (Depending on where you live, your costs may be slightly higher or lower.) For comparison, a basic replacement bathtub could cost $200 to $800, and deeper soaking tubs could cost up to $12,000, Fixr reports. Labor costs may add $500 to $2,000. While refinishing your bathtub yourself saves the most money, even bringing in a professional typically costs less than replacing the tub. Final Thoughts: Tub RefinishingRefinishing a tub could give your bathtub the makeover it needs. Refinishing a bathtub with enough preparation and precaution is a relatively clear-cut DIY project. However, you could splurge on professional refinishing for a more polished look. Replacing your bathtub ultimately comes at a higher cost, but it may be the right call if your tub has significant damage or if you plan to remodel the bathroom. By: HouseLogic Find out how to hang drywall before deciding how much help you need.
Whether adding a cutout between rooms, doing minor wall touch-ups, or bringing your wall’s outdated textures into this decade, you’ll need to get familiar with drywall. Drywall installation has a reputation as a labor-intensive project, and rightfully so. But if you’re an experienced, capable DIYer, you might be thinking about trying to install drywall on your own. Before diving in, you’ll want to dig into the finer points of DIY drywall installation and determine if soloing is your best bet or if this project is best left to the pros. When to Consider Replacing Drywall Here are a few indications that your drywall needs some love. Holes or Dents Minor holes or dents are the first signs that you should consider replacing your drywall. They can point to cosmetic damage or more severe damage to your home’s framing. Holes near an electric outlet could also indicate a bigger problem with electrical wiring damage. Water Damage Water damage in your drywall can require costly repairs to your ceiling and floors. Once you figure out the source of water damage and stop the leak, replacing your drywall is a good next step toward preventing water damage from ruining your home’s interior. CracksDrywall cracks tend to develop in high-stress areas and often signify framing problems or deeper structural issues. After determining the source of the cracking, replace your drywall to avoid any unnecessary dust. Discoloration Drywall can discolor because of shifts in temperature and humidity, which often signal plumbing or roofing issues. Minor spots left unaddressed may grow and contribute to mold or mildew. Start by addressing the root cause and assessing whether the drywall damage warrants replacement paneling. Once you know what’s causing the discoloration, you may be able to take preventive measures, such as using a dehumidifier. If you see any of these problems in your drywall, it’s time to get out the repair tools or call a contractor. Leaving these situations unchecked could end up causing more significant damage to your property. If you’re going to DIY it, you may want to consider a few tips for hanging drywall. Tips Before You Hang Drywall Once you’ve decided to hang or repair the drywall yourself, keep a few things in mind: Take Proper Measurements Measuring twice and cutting once is a smart rule for any DIY project. Taking precise measurements and accurately recording them can help avoid several problems. Leave a Floor Gap If your drywall panels intersect with your home’s floors, leave a half-inch gap between the drywall and the floor. The gap will allow your home’s floor to expand without damaging the drywall and help prevent moisture-wicking. Look for Moisture and Mold-Resistant Drywall If you’re hanging drywall in a heavy moisture area, such as a bathroom, look for water and mold-resistant drywall, such as green board drywall. While it isn’t waterproof, it is moisture resistant, making it an excellent option for walls in your bathroom that won’t have direct contact with water. Find the Right Drywall Thickness Different thicknesses of drywall are needed for different kinds of framing. For example, use one-half-inch drywall for framing with spans of 16 inches or less, and use 5/8-inch drywall for framing with spans of up to 24 inches. Following these guidelines can help you avoid issues and lead to a better installation experience. Materials and Tools for Installing and Hanging Drywall Before hanging drywall yourself, have a basic DIY toolkit with a drill, hammer, screwdrivers, utility knife, and utility saw. Then, you’ll need a few materials and tools specific to drywall installation. Drywall Panels Each drywall panel weighs 50 to 60 pounds, and panels typically come in twos. Despite their size and weight, they’re made of fragile material and can easily break if mishandled. That means you’ll need a second set of hands, so it could be time to cash in a few favors from all those friends you’ve helped move over the years. Drywall Screws These help secure your drywall paneling to studs. Different thicknesses of drywall will require different screw lengths, so make sure you’ve taken measurements and found the right screw according to your drywall thickness. Drywall Tape When you install drywall, you’ll see seams where the separate drywall panels intersect. Drywall tape covers these seams and forms a strong joint between the two panels. The tape is nonstick, meaning you must apply a joint compound to use it properly. Joint Compound Drywall joint compound, known as mud, is a paste that will cover any seams in your drywall paneling when applied to a properly fitted drywall tape. Mud can help you repair any minor cracks or holes in the drywall. It can also prepare your drywall to be painted, making it essential in the drywall installation process. Now that you’ve got a good sense of process and materials, you might want to estimate your costs. Estimating Costs for Hanging Drywall Drywall installation costs depend on several factors, including: Panel Thickness Drywall sheets cost 50 cents to 80 cents per square foot, depending on thickness. Thicker options cost more but may be worth the price in spaces that require more insulation or moisture resistance. Note that the drywall thickness you choose will depend on building codes and where the drywall is being hung. For instance, one-half-inch drywall is commonly used for most interior walls, while 5/8-inch drywall is used where code requires fire-resistant material. Room Size and Shape The size and shape of a room will affect the amount of paneling you need to purchase. Remember that some oddly shaped rooms may have more square footage than you think. To know how much drywall you need for a wall or ceiling, measure the length and width of the area. Multiply the width by the height to get the square footage of the wall. Once you’ve measured all the areas that need drywall and calculated their square footage, add up all the quantities to get the total square foot amount. To know how many drywall sheets you need, divide the total square footage you’ve calculated by 32 (for four-square-foot-by-eight-square-foot sheets), 48 (for four-square-foot-by-12-square-foot sheets), or 64 (for four-square-foot-by-16-square-foot sheets). Removal of Old Drywall If your project requires removing old drywall before installing new panels, you must factor in disposal costs. You may need to add labor costs if you outsource the work to a contractor. Taping and Mudding You’ll need to purchase the right amount of tape and mud to join all the seams in your drywall. Of course, this cost increases with a larger installation. Once you’ve determined the size and number of drywall sheets you need, you can calculate how much drywall your project will require. Multiply the number of sheets needed by the perimeter of each sheet. For eight four-square-foot-by-eight-square-foot sheets, you’ll need (8 x 32) 256 feet of tape. You’ll also need about 0.05 pounds of mud per square foot of drywall. Framing Installation If your drywall project requires you to install new framing in your home, the extra materials will increase the material cost, plus the labor to install. After all, this part of the project may not be a DIY project if new framing is required, and you don’t have any experience. If framing is necessary, you may want to expand the budget for support from a professional contractor and construction crew. Let’s talk more about how to tell if your project can be tackled as a DIY or if it’s best left to a contractor. Drywall Installation: DIY or Contractor? So, where exactly should you draw the line between trying to DIY hanging drywall or hiring a pro? It comes down to several factors, besides the cost, such as: How Much Labor Is Involved? There’s a lot to consider when DIYing a drywall project. Will your drywall installation require intricate cuts? Is it on a ceiling or a hard-to-access area? Is it a one-person job? Are you knowledgeable about codes? Minor repairs may be easy to tackle on your own, but for a significant drywall replacement you may need more help than you realize. Remember that hanging panels isn’t the end of the process, and you’ll need to tape and mud the drywall as well. Will I Need a Permit? Drywall installation typically doesn’t require a permit unless you work on support structures, load-bearing walls, or framing. You can check local and state government requirements to confirm whether you’ll need a permit for your drywall project. Working with a licensed contractor may save time if the installation requires a permit. Do I Have Enough Experience in DIY Home Repair? While drywall installation isn’t the most complicated home DIY project, it can be challenging for an inexperienced renovator. If you haven’t done basic home improvement projects, it may be wise to seek help from a contractor. When Should I Hire a Contractor? There are some instances when bringing on a contractor is non-negotiable. Hiring a contractor may be best if your project is large and complex or involves structural adjustments. Hiring a Contractor: Is It Worth It? While planning for drywall repair, replacement, or installation, compare the pros and cons of working with a contractor vs. DIY-ing and consider the price differences. Average Cost of Drywall Installations: DIY vs. Contractor All elements considered, installing drywall as a DIY project costs an average of $1.50 to $3 per square foot. Contractors typically charge $70 to $80 per hour for labor (plus the cost of materials), but these prices vary per job and contractor. Advantages of Working with a Contractor While contractors charge for labor and typically ask you to cover the costs of materials, your financial investment could be well worth it. Contractors can help you save time on large-scale projects. This is especially true if you have less experience in DIY repair and installation. For a small-scale installation, hanging drywall yourself might be more cost-effective. But as your project grows, you will benefit more from hiring a contractor. Of course, working with a licensed contractor means your project most likely will improve in quality, too, thanks to their years of experience and expertise. If you are looking for a contractor for your drywall project, a REALTOR®, a member of the National Association of REALTORS®, can recommend a qualified local contractor. Putting Up Drywall: DIY or Contractor? If you’re not feeling confident that you can manage DIY drywall installation, reach out to a pro to get a quote. Then, move on to bigger and better things, like choosing the perfect paint color, thumbing through creative wall ideas (did someone say Lego wall?), or maybe, just maybe, taking a bit of time to relax. By: Amy Howell Hirt Absolutely stunning! No. 4 is a water-resisting showstopper.
We don’t ask much from bathroom surfaces. Just that they be beautiful and withstand every cleaning chemical invented, steamy showers, piles of damp towels, and, did we mention tantrum-induced line-drives with bath toys? Oh, and they should be easy to clean. That’s all. So, what materials can live up to the ask? We asked the experts. Here are 10 they recommend. #1 Engineered Stone Countertop Dying for a white marble countertop? Join the club. But get ready to seal, reseal, and reseal. Then repeat. Year after year. Or, go for engineered stone, which can mimic marble (and other stone materials) for about the same cost, but minus the hassle. It’s nonporous, so it resists bacteria, mold, stains, and water damage better than the real thing. Better! And it never needs sealing. #2 Glazed Porcelain Tile Floor Moisture is Enemy No. 1 for bathroom floors, and glazed porcelain tile is its most worthy adversary. Glazed porcelain tiles won’t hold onto water like laminate and porous materials, and the ones that are glazed with glass are nearly stain-proof. The same is true of today’s high-quality epoxy and urethane grouts, which don’t require sealing. #3 Vinyl Floor Time to rethink vinyl. Hear us out. Luxury vinyl tiles, which mimic stone and wood, are awesome at resisting moisture. Other affordable options like laminate just can’t keep up. Plus, vinyl sheets are so large, you can cover a small bath without a single seam or grout line, making it easy on the eye and easier to keep clean. #4 Plywood Cabinets Yup. We said plywood. But today’s “grade A” offering isn’t your mother’s plywood. (Or your Swedish cousin’s, which is actually particleboard.) Composed of pressed layers of alder, birch, or cedar, grade A plywood (also known as furniture-grade) remains more stable in the face of moisture than solid wood, which will shrink and swell when exposed to bathroom humidity (causing cracks in painted surfaces and even warped panels). As for the finish, you don’t need to spring for anything fancy: The factory finish applied to cabinetry nowadays will hold up to the moisture. Isn’t living in the future great? #5 Tempered Glass Shower Doors While you need your glass to be tempered for safety, you don’t need a special spot-resistant treatment or upgraded texture to have crystal-clear shower doors. “Glass is easy to clean,” says Ebony Stephenson, a certified kitchen and bath designer. “I tell my clients, ‘I’ll give you a squeegee and you can save $2,000.’ It’s a lot of money when you can just wipe off your glass.” So definitely get tempered glass, but skip the add-on treatments that promise no spots. #6 Glossy or Semi-Glossy Paint Mold and mildew are real concerns, even on the walls, thanks to bathroom humidity. So paint sheen matters. A full-on glossy paint has a shiny, sealed surface that blocks out moisture and wipes clear of residue, say, from hairspray, without leaving a mark like a matte finish will. But the sheen can be a bit overbearing on anything more than trim and calls attention to wall flaws. A semi-glossy finish will hold up to cleaning and moisture nearly as well, without calling quite as much attention to bumps, dents, and other imperfections. #7 Cast Iron Tub A tub forged from molded liquid iron is likely going to be the toughest thing in your house — maybe even your neighborhood, depending on where you live. You may need extra support for your floor (and your pocketbook) to bring it home, but cast iron won’t chip, scratch, or dent like fiberglass, acrylic, or even porcelain can. This tub is your forever tub. And probably your children’s forever tub. And their kids’. #8 Porcelain-on-Steel Tub Don’t let its acronym, POS, misguide you: Heat-fused enamel on steel will resist corrosion, abrasion, and chipping better than synthetic materials, and it’s much more affordable than cast iron. #9 Acrylic Panel Shower Walls Despite their light weight, acrylic wall panels, often called shower surrounds, aren’t lightweights. They resist chipping, cracking, and peeling, and are much easier to maintain than stone tiles or slabs. Unlike tile, they nail directly to wall studs or glue to the wallboards, so they don’t require grout. Acrylic is tougher than fiberglass and colored all the way through — so it’s less likely to scratch. So even a deep cut won’t be as obvious. They’re also more affordable than tile and available in textured patterns if you want to look like you splurged on a fancy design. #10 Stainless Steel Sink Stainless: not just for kitchens anymore. Corrosion- and stain-resistant, stainless won’t melt under a hot curling iron like acrylic can, and it won’t dent or chip like porcelain if nail clippers plummet down from the medicine cabinet. And it’s the perfect match for the industrial-chic look that doesn’t seem to be going anywhere. Episode 305 AskJasonGelios Show By: Stacey Freed Quick-and-easy tasks that’ll brighten up your interior.
December. The year’s coming to an end. Time to do four small tasks for a bright (and money-saving) new year. #1 Clean Light Bulbs and Fixtures Two great reasons to clean your light bulbs: You want as much light in your house as you can get as the days grow shorter, and, you’ll save money. Dirty bulbs apparently shed 30% less light than clean ones, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. Wipe bulbs with a cloth dampened by a mix of 1 oz. dish soap, ¼ cup white vinegar, and 3 cups of water. Get to it Dec. 1 so you’re ready for the curtain fall on the shortest day of this year: Dec. 21. #2 Evaluate Homeowner’s Insurance The holidays. You love them, but they do seem to eat up more cash than other times of year. Sure, you can scrounge around for change under your couch cushions, but that’s not going to offset much. Why not get a home insurance checkup? Call your agent to go over the type of coverage you have, how much you really need, and how you can lower your premiums before your next monthly installment. #3 Pack a Home Emergency Kit The last thing you want during the holidays is for an emergency to chill your family’s cheer. Prepare for power outages and weather-related emergencies with an easy-to-find emergency kit. Some items to include are bottled water, a hand-crank radio, a flashlight, batteries, a portable charger for your phone, warm blankets and, of course, a first-aid kit to patch up any boo-boos. Singing carols ’round the flashlight may not be ideal, but it’ll beat trying to celebrate in the dark. #4 Buy Holiday Lights (After Dec. 25) It’s tough to think about next Christmas when you’re still stuffed from a holiday dinner with all the trimmings. But think you must if you want to save on next year’s holiday. From Dec. 26 through year’s end, big-box stores try to clear the shelves of all that glitters. Article by Stacy Freed Durability is key for kitchen remodeling, but it doesn’t have to cost a lot.
About to remodel that old kitchen? Unless you’re cool with treating the hardest working room in your house like a museum exhibit, resist the temptation to buy the cheapest or shiniest materials available. Instead, go for durable options that can stand up to regular abuse. Trust us: Although it may be tough to leave that raised, tempered glass bar top (ooh!) in the showroom, repairing its first (and second and third) chip will get old. Very fast. Picking the right materials is easy if you do your homework. “There are amazing products out there,” says Jeffrey Holloway, sales designer at Stuart Kitchens in the Greater Annapolis area. “You’re looking at price point, sanitation, how easy it is to clean the product, its durability, and maintenance.” Keeping those all-important features in mind, here are some materials to avoid during your next kitchen project. #1 Plastic Laminate Counters First off, there’s plenty of great laminate out there. It’s the entry-level, plastic laminate you want to stay away from, Holloway says. These are the ones that look thin and dull, as opposed to richly textured. They scratch easily, and if the product underneath the laminate gets wet (say, from steam rising from your dishwasher), it can delaminate the countertop. That means the edges will chip pretty easily. Also, one misplaced hot pan on the plastic will result in a melted disaster zone you’ll remember forever. But if you’re watching your budget, plastic laminate at the next level up is a good choice. “It’s got good color consistency, and there are a lot of retro and trendy patterns available,” says Dani Polidor, an interior designer and owner of Suite Artistry, and a REALTOR® in Pittsford, N.Y. New laminate counter technology offers scratch resistance, textured surfaces, and patterns that mimic real wood and stone. “There are even self-repairing nanotechnologies embedded in some laminates,” says Polidor. “Other laminates have antimicrobial properties.” A pro can install high-end laminate for 30 square feet of counter space for about $2,000. Laminate-type material with an antimicrobial finish costs an average $15 to $30 per square foot, according to FixR. #2 Inexpensive Sheet Vinyl Flooring You spend all day stepping on your floor, so quality really matters. At the lower price point, about $3 per square foot without installation, the cheapest sheet vinyl floorings tend to be thin. “If your vinyl floor is glued down and the underlayment gets delaminated, say, by water seeping from your dishwasher or refrigerator, you’ll get bubbles in your floor,” Holloway warns. Compare that with luxury vinyl tile, which costs about $11 per square foot without installation. It’s still usually glued down, but it’s a little more forgiving than its less classy cousin. It can come in tiles, which you can grout so they mimic the look of higher-end stone, Polidor says. #3 Some Laminated Cabinet Fronts Holloway suggests staying away from lower-end thermofoil cabinet fronts. What is thermofoil? Contrary to its name, there’s no foil or any metal-type material in it. It’s actually vinyl that’s heated and molded around fiberboard. If the cabinet is white and the price is waaaaay affordable compared with other cabinets, think twice. Cheaper thermofoil has three critical drawbacks: 1. It’s not heat resistant. If near a dishwasher or oven, it could delaminate. 2. It can warp and yellow with age, revealing its cheapness. 3. The “wood” underneath the thermofoil is also poor quality and won’t hold up over time. But just as with plastic laminate, science has made great strides, and a host of new cabinets are remaking thermofoil’s reputation. “New European laminates have become all the rage for the clean-lined, flat-panel look,” Polidor says. “They’re budget-friendly and can look like wood or high gloss. It’s not your grandmother’s thermofoil.” And it doesn’t come at Grandma’s prices, either. But the new thermofoil is much more affordable than custom cabinets (see more on this, below) and still satisfies with its rich look and durability. #4 High-Gloss Lacquered Cabinets A nice shine can be eye-catching. And spendy. About 20 layers of lacquer go on a cabinet for the high-gloss look. Ding it or scratch it, and it’s costly to repair. “It’s a multi-step process for repairing them,” Polidor says. A better option for the same look is high-end thermofoil. (See? We said there were good thermofoil options!) Thermofoil has a finish that’s fused to the cabinet and baked on for a more durable exterior. And it’s way more budget-friendly. This option costs $250 to $350 per cabinet, depending on the style, size, and color. To have a pro apply lacquer to your cabinets, expect to pay $50 to $100 per linear foot. For an average kitchen with 20 linear feet of cabinets, that works out to $1,000 to $2,000. #5 Flat Paint Flat paint has that sophisticated, velvety, rich look we all love. But keep it in the bedroom. It’s not kitchen-friendly. Flat paint, also known as matte paint, has durability issues. It’s unstable. Try to wipe off one splatter of chili sauce, and you’ve ruined the paint job. About the only place to use flat paint in your kitchen is on the ceiling (unless, of course, you have a reputation for blender or pressure-cooker accidents that reach to the ceiling; then, we suggest takeout). Instead, you want to use high-gloss or semi-gloss paint on your walls. They can stand up to multiple scrubbings before breaking down. #6 Trendy Backsplash Materials Tastes change. So, avoid super trendy colors and materials when permanently adhering something to your kitchen walls. Backsplashes come in glass, metal, iridescent, and high-relief decor tiles, which are undoubtedly fun and tempting. They can also be expensive, ranging from $5 to $220 a square foot, and difficult to install. Pricing varies greatly based on materials, including metal, glass, granite, stone, and marble. After all that work and expense, if (er, when) your taste changes in a few years, it’ll be mighty tough to justify a redo. Stick with a classic subway tile at $6 to $16 per square foot. Or, even more budget friendly, choose an integrated backsplash that matches your countertop material. “If you want pops of color, do it with accessories,” Polidor suggests. Realtor Rant by Jason Gelios Transform your home into a beautifully designed space — without the spendy price tag.
Home improvement pros and DIYers tout a fresh coat of paint as a favorite among low-cost home upgrades that can make a huge impact. But what else can you do to accessorize and decorate? Sometimes the little things can make a bigger difference than you’d think. Professionals share the following easy and low-cost home upgrades to add a designer’s touch all around the house. These projects may even help increase your home’s perceived value. For the Bathroom 1. Frame It Estimated cost: starting around $100 That edgeless, builder-grade mirror hanging above the bathroom vanity may be prime for an update. Jessica Love, an interior designer with Urbane Design in Austin, Texas, suggests using DIY frame kits, like the ones from MirrorMate. Measure the mirror and choose from numerous frame styles and materials, like wooden walnut or shiny brass. The frame kit includes clips and metal strips to attach to the existing mirror. A once-forgettable mirror instantly looks customized and styled to the space, Love says. 2. Infuse Some Green Estimated cost: $5 and up Simply adding greenery can liven up bathroom spaces and soften harsh lines from all the heavy fixtures, designers say. Try a statement plant on the floor, like the vertical sword-shaped leaves of a snake plant or the feathery foliage from a bird’s nest fern. Or you could incorporate smaller plants, like a mini aloe in a white ceramic planter or an iron fern in a rounded marble vase. Many renovators say they’re incorporating greenery to update their bathrooms for aesthetics, air purification, and odor-fighting abilities, according to the 2022 U.S. Houzz Bathroom Trends Study, a survey of 2,500-plus remodeling homeowners. Tight on space? Love suggests topping a shelf or vanity counter with an air-purifying indoor plant on a natural tray (for texture) along with a favorite candle. 3. Modernize Hardware Estimated cost: hardware starting at about $2 apiece, faucets for $200 or less Just swapping out the faucets and drawer pulls is a small home upgrade that can refresh an outdated bathroom. Try trendy gold or black cabinet pulls or a modern boxy-style faucet. “Mixed metals are trending right now,” Love says. “We’re seeing black with brass and brass with chrome.” Love’s favorite resource for inspiration is Build.com, which features a variety of manufacturers and styles. 4. Soften the Lights Estimated cost: about $100 or less a piece ($40 to $120 per fixture for installation by an electrician) Wall sconces can warm up the bathroom lighting, says interior designer Jessica Nelson of Jessica Nelson Design in Seattle. She suggests wall sconces hung on each side of the vanity mirror in a black, brass, or chrome finish. The bulb color’s temperature is important, Nelson adds. “My sweet spot is between 2700K [Kelvin] and 3000K. I do not recommend going any cooler than that,” she says. “2700K is a crisp but warm white, and 3000K is my personal favorite. It’s a really soft warm light.” For the Bedroom 5. Add Molding to the Walls Estimated cost: about $200, including a designer’s input Installing molding on the walls behind the bed is an impressive home upgrade. Krisztina Bell, founder of No Vacancy Home Staging and Virtually Staging Properties in the Atlanta area, recently used black molding zigzagged across a wall to dress up a white, blank slate behind the bed frame. She says designers and woodworking artists are readily available on sites like Etsy.com (search under “professionally designed custom dimensional accent wall”). They will custom design a 3D digital model of the molding to fit your wall and provide an instruction packet, shopping list, and cutting and installation instructions so you can DIY. 6. Decorate With Mirrors Estimated cost: $150 to $250“ I love adding a statement wall mirror to a bedroom,” says Channa Alvarez, interior designer and production designer at Living Spaces, a national furniture retailer in La Mirada, Calif. She suggests hanging a new mirror above a nightstand, dresser, chest, or bed. Try a mirror in an unusual shape, like a diamond, hexagon, or square silhouette. “If you’re itching for a redesign but don’t want to spend so much, a mirror is the perfect buy. It’s simple, affordable, and light-enhancing.” For the Living Room 7. Texturize and Accessorize Estimated cost: $50 to $150 to update a few accessories“ A room can appear one-dimensional when it’s missing texture,” says interior designer Lance Thomas of Thomas Guy Interiors in Lake Charles, La. Designers may add texture by incorporating dressers with fluted designs, chunky knit throws, velvet ottomans, or leather accent chairs. You can adapt that idea by scoping out items from other rooms in your house that you can mix in the living room to add texture and depth. Or shop secondhand stores for small items you can refinish, repurpose, or re-cover. For example, re-covered accent pillows are an affordable way to add texture to your furniture. “Perhaps the best thing about accent pillows is they’re an easy seasonal item, making your living room feel different without costing as much as a new furniture buy,” Alvarez adds. “Throw pillows are a great and inexpensive way to incorporate new trends or add color to your living room.” Also, functional accents — like a set of three seagrass baskets — can be great for a corner or near a fireplace, Alvarez says. Then, “place throw blankets in them to give the room a cozy, inviting feel.” 8. Wallpaper the Shelves Estimated cost: about $50 for a small roll For homeowners who may be too timid to jump on the wallpaper comeback trend, try it in small doses and with less commitment (especially when using a removable peel-and-stick type). Interior designer Mel Bean of Mel Bean Interiors in Tulsa, Okla., suggests adding wallpaper to the inside back of a bookcase or other shelving unit to dress it up. Recently, she used a jagged, striped gray-and-cream-colored wallpaper behind each shelf on an all-white built-in to add texture, color, and a more custom look. For the Kitchen 9. Bring in Some Bling Estimated cost: starting at $2 apiece for cabinet hardware, $60 to $150 for pendant lighting (extra $40 to $120 per fixture for installation by an electrician)Don’t let an all-white kitchen become boring, Bell says. “Add industrial or contemporary black hardware and lighting to make a kitchen look more chic. Gold is trendy; or chrome, nickel, brushed silver, and stainless steel hardware and lighting are always safe bets,” she adds. Bell likes sites such as Overstock.com, Wayfair.com, or Amazon.com for affordable, stylish mid-century mod, industrial, or futuristic pendant lighting options. For example, she used shiny gold canned pendants in an otherwise all-white kitchen to highlight the island. “Even just changing out one main fixture or series of pendants above a kitchen island can change the whole look of a room instantly without having to renovate the entire kitchen,” she says. 10. Dress Up the Pantry Estimated cost: starting at $1 each for baskets and glass jars Pantries have emerged as a kitchen favorite, so they’re a good choice for a home upgrade. They’re rated as essential or desirable by at least 80% of home shoppers, according to the National Association of Home Builders “What Home Buyers Really Want” consumer survey. Retailers such as the Container Store, Ikea, and Dollar General offer baskets and glass jars in all shapes and sizes. “Invest in a label maker and go to town organizing your pantry so everything matches and looks almost decorative or too pretty to take snacks from,” Bell says. “This helps create visual order in the space too.” For example, stow pasta in a glass container, put the packaged bread and other products in shelf-sized baskets, and color coordinate the canned goods. For Outdoors 11. Accentuate With Flower Boxes Estimated cost: $150 Boxes filled with flowers along the bottom ledge of your outside windows can enhance your home’s architecture and colors. “Flower boxes have this cozy and charming feel,” says Jackie Mosher, co-founder of Dzinly, a company in Royal Oak, Mich., that helps homeowners and real estate professionals digitally design exteriors. “They can add interest, dimension, and some personality.” Fill them all year-round. Mosher suggests using three different types of flowers (for example, greenery, a taller plant in the center, and a colorful accent flower). The size, proportion, and positioning of flower boxes are important; don’t overdo it, she adds. Not every window needs one. Maybe it’s just the large picture window or the windows on a second story. To test placement, Mosher suggests duct taping cardboard cutouts to the windows to view the possibilities before drilling any holes. 12. Swap Out Lighting Fixtures Estimated cost: $200 to $250Bring in a statement light above the front door for a functional and dramatic home upgrade. A hanging pendant or chandelier on the front porch isn’t just for extra illumination. It can enhance curb appeal, Mosher says. She suggests a fixture that’s about one-third or one-fourth the size of the front door (including the trim) and having it hang about 66 inches from the ground. “So many times, we hang them too high,” she says. “Let your front porch light be the loudest. The lights on the exterior should be your jewelry — your ‘wow.’” If there’s no place for a pendant, upgrade the lights to the side of the door, such as with boxed lanterns in a black or antique bronze, she suggests. Her favorite site for inspiration: Bevolo.com, which recommends fixtures based on house style (modern, traditional, coastal, etc.). 13. Oversize the House Numbers Estimated cost: $150 to $200 The home’s address numbers may seem insignificant for the outside design, but Mosher calls them one of her favorite inexpensive home upgrades. Large format, sleek black address numbers can add a modern vibe to a home, she says. “House numbers are like adding a statement watch to your outfit. It pulls it all together.” The numbers can be in all-black or in colors, like even pink or teal, depending on the home’s style, she says. The placement varies too, from the side of the front door to above the garage or anywhere along the front. “These can become a focal point and add some flair,” she says. Mosher’s favorite site for inspiration for house numbers: Modernhousenumbers.com. Episode 302 AskJasonGelios Show Realtor Jason Gelios breaks down the home selling process in easy steps.
By: HouseLogic Learn the basics to avoid surprises.
After investing a lot of money in your home, the chance to get some of it back during retirement — while staying in the home — sounds like a good deal. That’s the idea behind a reverse mortgage. The option may especially appeal to homeowners who have significant equity in the house and want to age in place. If you or a family member are exploring retirement planning, you’ll want to weigh reverse mortgage pros and cons, including the strict eligibility requirements and alternatives. How Does a Reverse Mortgage Work? A reverse mortgage is a loan you take against the equity in your home. You don’t have to make monthly principal or interest payments as you would with a traditional mortgage or a home equity loan. The lender distributes funds tax-free as a lump sum, a line of credit, or a monthly payment. You won’t have to repay the reverse mortgage loan as long as you’re living in the home, but it becomes due if you sell, move, or pass away. So, for seniors who plan to spend the rest of their life in their primary residence, the loan may never come due. What Are the Requirements for a Reverse Mortgage? Most reverse mortgages are Home Equity Conversion Mortgages, or HECM, loans insured by the Federal Housing Administration. Some private lenders and state or local governments also offer reverse mortgages, but they may not offer the same level of consumer protection. HECM loans require borrowers to meet strict eligibility requirements, including:
With these strict requirements, many people won’t qualify for a reverse mortgage loan. But eligible homeowners will want to know reverse mortgage pros and cons. What Are the Pros of a Reverse Mortgage? A reverse mortgage has several benefits, including: Reverse Mortgages Could Provide Income During Retirement Retirees can use a reverse mortgage to supplement other retirement income streams, like Social Security or a pension. The reverse mortgage process allows homeowners to turn an illiquid asset (a house) into cash they can use for daily expenses. Situations in Which the Mortgage Loan Will Be Due Are Clearly Defined Until you move, sell, or die, you can continue borrowing and using the loan. But you or your heirs may need to sell the residence to cover the loan balance in the future. The Loan Amount Won’t Exceed Your Home’s Value With a changeable real estate market, some homeowners are concerned about what they’ll do if their home loses value. The good news is that FHA mortgage insurance fills the void between what you owe and the home’s sale price. That means you won’t be responsible for more than what your home is worth. Reverse Mortgages Offer Tax-Free Payouts The money you receive from a reverse mortgage isn’t considered taxable by the IRS. That means you could end up with more money in your pocket than what you’d pay for withdrawals from another retirement account, like a pretax 401(k). What Are the Cons of a Reverse Mortgage? Cons of a reverse mortgage include: Risk of Foreclosure As with a home equity loan or home equity line of credit, failure to meet loan terms or keep up with costs could cause the lender to repossess the home through foreclosure. Loan Costs A reverse mortgage carries insurance costs, closing fees, and origination fees. Discuss these costs with a loan counselor to avoid surprises. Age Restrictions Since you must be 62 to be eligible for a reverse mortgage, many homeowners can’t access it. Insufficient Proceeds The proceeds must be enough to help cover property taxes, homeowner insurance premiums, and home maintenance costs. Failure to stay current in any of these areas may cause lenders to call the reverse mortgage due, which could result in the loss of the home. Possible Scams Reverse mortgage scams often target homeowners facing foreclosure. Because of higher closing costs and other fees, taxes, and premiums, a reverse mortgage could be too expensive for a senior with financial problems. Inability to Borrow the Full Value of the Home Qualified homeowners may not be able to borrow the entire value of their home even if their mortgage is paid off. The amount a homeowner can borrow varies based on the age of the youngest borrower or eligible nonborrowing spouse, current interest rates, the HECM mortgage limit, and the home’s value. Most reverse mortgages have a “nonrecourse clause,” meaning you or your estate can’t owe more than the value of your home when the loan becomes due and the home is sold. More Owed Over Time As you get money through your reverse mortgage, interest is added to the balance you owe each month. That means the amount you owe grows as the interest on your loan adds up. Potential Change in Interest Rates Most reverse mortgages have variable rates, which are tied to a financial index and change with the market. Variable rate loans may give you more options on how you get your money through the reverse mortgage. Some reverse mortgages — mostly HECMs — offer fixed rates, but they may require you to take your loan as a lump sum at closing. Interest Not Tax Deductible Each Year Interest on reverse mortgages isn’t deductible on income tax returns until the loan is paid, either partially or in full. What Are Alternatives to Reverse Mortgages? If you don’t qualify for or you decide against a reverse mortgage loan, you still have financing options. A home equity loan, or second mortgage, lets homeowners borrow against the equity in their home. The loan amount is based on the difference between the home’s current market value and the mortgage balance the homeowner still owes. If you don’t want to take out a large loan against your home’s equity, you may want to consider a home equity line of credit, or HELOC. You can draw funds as you need them and repay them using a variable interest rate. HELOCs can make sense for homeowners who need funds for ongoing home improvement projects or time to pay down existing debt. To qualify for the most attractive rates, you’ll need a high credit score, a low debt-to-income ratio, and substantial equity in your home. |
AuthorJason Gelios is a Husband and Father. After that, a Top Producing REALTOR®, Author of the books 'Think like a REALTOR®' and 'Beating The Force Of Average', Creator of The AskJasonGelios Real Estate Show and Expert Media Contributor to media outlets across the country. Archives
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